A giant sandbox in the sun: The Sea Bajau Children of Island Paradise (Part 2)

[nabghani]

Text by Nazeri Abghani
Pictures by Nazeri Abghani, Peter Kan and Rabani Ayub


The island covers an area of 20.16 hectares covered mostly by sands unlike the nearby islands which are actually a raised limestone platform. There may be volcanic rock many metres below the surface, with a cap of old reef limestone on top. A sandy beach runs around the island. A location far way from the maddening crowd with pure white sands, deep blue skies and emerald green waters … a giant sandbox both home and playgound to the island's children. Do they want to be anywhere else?
Nazeri Abghani © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.

Out on the open seas located in the life giving clear waters of Sulu Sea, miles away from any major cities sits an island paradise. There is no traffic congestion here, there is no mass of bodies perpetually running around trying to get everywhere.There is definitely fresh air. The sky is eternally blue, the clouds equally billowy, pure white and dramatic. The water is clear and emerald green. Colorful coral fishes and strange looking crabs dash about belonging to species some of which we never knew existed. Coconut palms sway gently like young maidens performing an intricate dance in the soft sea breeze, dark green palm fronds set against the deep blue sky. Even the rushing of the waves here are gentle, deliberate, constant and without that loud crashing sound. Living and growing up here on this tropical island in sun should not at all be a bad proposition for any person.


There are two distinct settlements on the island … the Muslims side on the south western part and the Sulugs on the eastern side. The Bajau community speak Malay but most of the Suluks don't. Since most of the daytime activities are at sea, most of the population kept to themselves majority of the time. During the late afternoon boys and girls from both communities gather for a game of beach volleyball on a makeshift court in the sand on the eastern side of the island. The young folks seems to mix more freely during VCD movies at one of the tucker shop.
Nazeri Abghani © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.

Sabah Park’s 1999 estimate put the island population at approximately 360 individuals. Today it looks to be less that 150, most of the boat moorings have since moved on. The original settlers on this island were Bajaus from Tawi-Tawi who arrived in 1972 (Piper, 1981) during the height of the Moro Mindanao separatist movement in Southern Phillippines. They were later joined by Suluks in 1980. There are now approximately 40 houses on the island mostly located on the southwest. Of the total population only 7% of the population are Malaysian citizens. (1) There are no schools or medical facilities on the island.

Today, an estimated number of fifty children live here with their parents. They are all within the 8-12 schoolgoing age and all were born here. Other than nine year old Rosli, grandchild of the Imam none goes to school. Considering the predicament they are saddled with it's a little wonder how they can exhibit such high level of exuberance. This is in stark contrast to the generally sparse refugee-stateless island lifestyle prevalent on the island. Perhaps it's the environment they are in. They are always laughing, giggling, running around and playing. You can't blame them, the island is practically covered by pure white coral sands, these kids are living in a giant sandbox in the sun. Isn't this every child's dream come true?


Musilib in a "you can't catch me" game with a friend on a sandbar just recently exposed after noon's receding tide. Plenty of activities to occupy these children lucky to be living here. Much room for exploration and an even more vast natural oddities to be curious about. Many a modern lifestyle's discards are actually treasured finds fo them. Empty bottles are converted to portable mini-aquariums that they carry around to study little fishes they catch in the shallows. All manner of plastic discards are fashioned into rings and necklaces by the girls and boys.
Nazeri Abghani © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.

If you don't have a school (2) to go to, what else do you do if you live in a sandbox? Play of course, and this is just the place! These kids here seems to be doing plenty of it.

Beachcombing is one of the top activity favored by many … everybody takes an indulgence and they all love it … as one famous person once said "Life is like a box of chocolates, you'll never know what you gonna get!" (3) . Beachcombing is the same for these children. Being poor and without the usual toys like the city kids are used to, stray bottle caps can keep them amused for hours. There are plenty of nature too. They tire not of rummaging thru the natural wonders the beach lays down for them. The more industrious amongst the troop would be traipsing the shallows gathering food from the sea … this sometimes include sea cucumber, sea urchins and numerous shellfish. This forms a small part of subsistence gathering.


Star-children! The children goofing around for the camera with resident starfish. Would you rather go to tuition, music lessons, pick up Mandarin or go and look and see what you can find in the rich coral gardens today? There are 528 coral reef fish species and 255 coral species here alone. Twenty four species of starfish, thirty two species of sea cucumber and one hundred forty species of sponges have been documented in the island complex. (4) The amazing diversity of species in the intertidal zones guarantee an exciting discovery for these young minds on a daily basis not to mention their daily intake of nutrition.
Rabani HM Ayub© Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.

When the day gets a little too hot as islands in the tropical sun tends to be typically by mid morning, most of the children will head to the shady and cool recess of their homes. Actually under it! Built on stilts high off the ground, the houses typically have 4-5 feet clearance off the ground. Higher especially for those built close to the water's edge. These huts are simple homes made of found wood and thatched palm fronds. With a built up area of around 40-50 sq feet, the houses provide ample shade for a good 10 to 15 people. While the adults indulge in board games like mahjong or a game of cards, the children would be role playing in the sand using discarded cigarette butts, bottle caps and shells.



Musilib and Dibakli strategising their island tic-tac-toe game. Each side has a three piece pawn in this case the yellow and white discarded cigarette butts. Each pawn will endeavour to create a straight line up of same color pawns. The opposing side will do its utmost best to prevent this from happening vis-a-vis.. In this game two players (and ten spectators and of course one mr. know-it-all) pitch strategy and quick thinking … the best players work fast and furious ending the game in minutes with a victorious cry of "GAME!" upon winning. The losers get to set the sand. Not shown in picture is one mr. know-it-all and ten vociferous supporters.
Nazeri Abghani © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.

We were tempted to introduce a game of hop-scotch, we relented in the end however considering the three of us made a combined total weight of 240 kg and there might be an old volcano a few metres under us. We thought we'd save the village from unexpected little tremblors … the old volcano might just stir again with 240kg bouncing above ground.

[nabghani]

The zest for life this children have within them carries thru into the night. On full moon nights the main sandy thoroughfare of the village turns into a large canvas for sand painting! The children huddle together making their rendition of sea creatures and scenes. The work they produce are so amazingly lifelike and relevant it'll put many more art-tuition-enrolled city kids to shame. With the moon in full luminance, these creative work seems to pop out from the ground after the etchings are filled in with white dry sand.


Jalani aka Andy concentrating on her sealife piece, a bumphead wrasse. Her other finished work: diver approaching a large shark. First the dry sand is whisked aside, then an etching of the subject is made on the dark sand in the form of lines with bare fingers. The etched lines in the sand are then filled in with dry white sand. Considering that these children have had nor formal education or art training, their inherrent awareness of their surroundings is most surprising. Would be interesting to see what these little artists can do with some drawing block and paint.
Peter Kan © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.


Tyneil and a friend starting on their tuna creation under the admiring eyes of the Ketua Kampung (in green stripes) and other village adults. On full moon nights the white sands luminesces against the dark damp background ... the affect has to be seen with your own eyes.
Peter Kan © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.


Another one of Andy's creation ... a diver and a really huge shark. Most of the children have seen the creatures they etched. Commonly seen are turtles, dolphins, shark and whale shark.
Peter Kan © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.

Ocho-ocho dance on a fullmoon night is also apparently a regular affair. A teenager started it all off by strumming an aged acoustic guitar and sang with a gravelly voice his version of "Berpesta di pantai" and few other songs we don't quite recognize though the melodies sounded familiar … mostly hits from the 70s. "One way ticket to the blues" was played too.
Five year old Aslinda got the night rolling and was later joined by Dimah. Together they lithely move their bodies and curved fingers to the melody of the guitar. They took turns performing in groups of 4-5. The brightness from the moon added to the magic. Parents and siblings stood by giving encouragement and shouted support. Everyone clapped. It took a while before Jalani aka Andy and Asnawie decided to enter the fray. Then Herman and Jamal. Rosli gave it a shot with Jes. This carried on till late. Fullmoon nights are festive alright here on island in the sun. It's made more special by the impromptu carefree abandon of a child and joyful egging from the parents.


Fullmoon over a seemingly quiet village path, the night is cool and bright with a soothing gentle breeze whispering constantly from the sea.. We were warned earlier by the Ketua Kampung that full moon nights carry with them a special significance the kids … that we might not get our nite's rest. It's fairly bright and the children get extra playtime … it's like having another 6 hours of daylight. While the adults while away the bright nights chopping extra firewood, boiling extra sea cucumbers, mending nets and fixing up the boat. The children have other plans … the mood is just right for a spot of ocho-ocho.
Peter Kan © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.





Aslinda and Dimah making the moves in the evening's ocho-ocho performance. Almost the entire southwest settlement was there to encourage and give the children tips on the perfect moves. Boys shy away at first but was soon jumping into the fray not wanting to let only the girls have all the fun. It's a traditional Bajau dance with an accompaniment of a solo acoustic guitar. Vocals by the courtesy of the guitarist. Most of the children gave it their best and having fun at it showing each other how to do it better. Parents and older siblings were there clapping away in excitement.
Rabani HM Ayub © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.


Talking about the future and reminiscing about the past, many a discussion and conversations are done under the shade of the thatched roof huts. In the searing heat of the late morning, this is the only place they find relief on rest days. The island population plight is indeed a dire one. While the Malaysian, Philipines and Indonesian governments are discussing what to do with these people they continue to live their hard life at the borderline of decent existence, waiting for a positive solution. Most hope to be in the Malaysian mainstream. They have been waiting for the past 30 years. The ones that suffers most are the children … in 10 years time they'll be in the same predicament as the parents.
Nazeri Abghani © Copyright 2006. All rights reserved.


Life here is definitely different from that of the mainland. It's harder, the stimuli are different and more natural, the motivation more pressing and basic. If parents in our more developed life in the city dictates that children attend after school tuition, sign up for mandarin, pick up piano lessons on top of the weekly art classes these parents here merely provide the most they can from their already austere life : they give their children the freedom to explore the environment and they give them plenty of time to play. That's all they can afford given the circumstances, these above and beyond the unconditional love all parents shower their children.

Whether this early exuberant island childhood life is to be sufficient foundation for a life on the mainstream, the answer is sadly No. For these children life as an adult will be hard and will definitely be hand to mouth. Without drastic changes in their status and privileges, they will continue to be denied basic needs.(5) Without education, their outlook is grave. None have had their vaccinations done. This is the very reality they are living daily and very unfortunate for the children as they are powerless to change them.

Before we took our boat back to Semporna, several of the boys and girls asked if they can come with us to Tawau. Strange we thought, given half a chance we would rather play with them in this giant sandbox of theirs.

Stay tuned for Part III where we'll get to know a few of the children and find out how you can help them.

Footnotes:

1 Marine Conservation Society UK, Field Report Semporna Islands Park. 1998-1999.

2 This population of Sea Bajau is categorized as stateless in Sabah. The first arrivals fled persecution from Southern Phillipines during the height of the Moro Mindanao separatist movement in the 1970s. They claimed refugee status and presently accorded temporary pass IMM13 to live on this island and have settled here since.

3 Forrest Gump from the movie Forrest Gump

4 MCSUK, Field Report Semporna Islands Park. 1998-1999.

5 The Sabah state government is presently in active discussion over what to do with the high number of stateless persons in the state. The Malaysian government has been in continuous discussion with their Philippines and Indonesian counterparts on this issue. It's clearly not an easy task as exhibited by the number of years this problem has been at hand.

[tsechien]

Really a real indepth study and excellent write up! Makes for a really good anthropological/photographic essay.

I must say I am REALLY looking forward to that August trip (despite initial fears of that beach toilet)

chien

[tsechien]

" Considering that these children have had nor formal education or art training, their inherrent awareness of their surroundings is most surprising."

Most city kids & even grown ups have very low awareness of their immediate surroundings and I think that is because the brain is tuned to filter out "irrelevant noise" otherwise surburban living would be hell (if everything were to get noticed).

These children live in an "peaceful" isolated environment that is rarely intruded upon and hence have the luxury of focusing in more detail into the environment that surrounds them and thus are far more aware.

I think this is a true gift.

chien

[sharpshooter]

Woah nab... that is a very interesting write up on their lives. I felt myself experiencing their culture through your descriptions. You guys are true travel photographers/explorers. I will definately be looking to future postings from you about these same genres!

[digitalartist]

I'm now kicking myself for pulling out at the last minute......

[maxby]

Wow! great write up. I wonder if you have any pictures of them in their traditional costumes? There may be something that we can do....

[tsechien]

Originally Posted by digitalartist I'm now kicking myself for pulling out at the last minute......

No, it ain't too late. This trip is before the Crossing Borders one.

chien

[david.tan]

great photo yet great story, wish to have chance to visit there, thanks for sharing, much appreciated !

[yoong]

awesome photos, awesome article.
this is one the best reading materials i've come across over here.
thanks naz.

[@y@]

[sean eng]

good pix good detail

love it~!

[edng]

outstandingly intriguing...... thanks for bring awareness to this group of humanity....

I believe that as visitors staying for only a short period of time, it might look all wonderful with play, dance and giant sandbox and all....... they seem to live an extremely difficult life without education, things that we deem to be basic 'must-have' minimum necessities (like health-care, electricity, running water and maybe even a 7-11)

truly fascinating....thanks again for sharing

[ImAn]

Superbss Write-up!!! Kipidap Dewwd!!

[kwanfm]

Most photographers went there snap and go. Include myself. Feeling guilty now. I think most people will never know what is going on in the island. Nab, you opened our eyes. Excellent write up. Should feature this article in major newspapers column or in the magazine.

Nab, you did it! Keep up the good work.

So anyone come this August?

[noordin]

Super, super pics. Picture #3 just blew me.

[tsechien]

Originally Posted by kwanfm So anyone come this August?

Me! Flights already booked.

chien

[pete]

The pix of the kids with the starfish is absolutely brilliant!
Thanks for your write-up, too.

[ted]

(in deep thoughts...)

[Leslie2005]

I love the stories.. did you write a journal when you were there ?

Btw the blue skies.... ahhhhhhhh